Burmese Days

Our motivation to go to Myanmar (Burma) was inspired by a Top Gear program before Jeremy Clarkson disgraced himself. He still remains a favourite despite his outspoken ways. I had one eye on the TV, my nose in the computer. Rob piped up that Myanmar appealed to him. Despite numerous appeals to go somewhere new I could not get him to commit. I grabbed this opportunity and before Jeremy could say ‘Mingalarpar’ (hello) I had found our perfect itinerary thanks to Backyard Travel (Asia).

We jetted off in September via Hong Kong. Surprisingly, the air fare was not crippling, but the cost of our two week stay in Myanmar was pricey. The main appeal was sailing down the Irrawaddy River from Mandalay to Bagan. I have had enough of long days stuck in a vehicle on bad roads. This is how I wanted to travel. It has ruined me for life, because this is going to be my modus operandum from now on.

We arrived in Yangon at midnight. The new airport is under construction and looks hugely impressive. Yangon was asleep, it had rained and we had the silent roads to ourselves. A totally contrasting impression to the Yangon we encountered during the day. We arrived at the Kandawgyi Palace Hotel and were treated like royalty. Throughout our travels we were made to feel very welcome, we enjoyed the Burmese people and were impressed by their hospitality. In spite of their violent and chequered past they have embraced their role as major players in the tourism industry. All our guides from Back Yard Travel were excellent. Our driver in Yangon was hard work, we named him ‘Good Johnny’ as we didn’t quite catch his name and were too intimidated to ask again. We struggled to get a smile out of him, but by the end of the day he showed some signs of thawing.

Our itinerary included a couple of internal flights with Air KBZ. There were no delays, no falling out of the sky and smooth landings. We were impressed with the service. We flew from Yangon to Heho to spend 3 nights at the Inle Resort & Spa. Our guide Myo was wonderful, knowledgeable and put up with our requests for authentic food, a place to find gin and Myanmar beer. For two and a half days we skimmed the waters of Lake Inle.

We saw the floating tomato farms (fascinating for us, as farmers), silk and lotus weaving factories, morning markets where we ate as much street food as possible (and didn’t get Dehli Belly), watched in awe as the leg-rowing fishermen went about their cumbersome way.

We ate at the Golden Dragon, drank Myanmar beer, had a cooking lesson with a local family, bought silver jewellery, played with

Burmese cats at their sanctuary and visited golden stupas. We hesitated going to the sunken stupas of Sagar as it was a 3 hour journey by boat. It seemed a long way to go, the boats are not the most comfortable and the noisy engine can drown away the most peaceful thoughts. But I am glad we did it. The area is not over-subscribed by tourists, probably because it is part of the opium trade route!

Next stop was Mandalay. Our guide Lin was like a breath of fresh air. He was full of fun, and clearly loved his job. And we loved him. We travelled in September, on the cusp of the high season, and it was as hot as a red chilli. One advantage was the low number of tourists, but at times the heat sucked every ounce of energy from our exhausted bodies. Shoes have to be removed at temples and tourists are easily spotted hopping from one shadow to another.

Sunset at Mandalay Hill was magnificent. We opted out of the 900 stair walk and drove almost to the top to watch the sun set over the swollen Irrawaddy River. Young monks took advantage of our presence to practice their English. A lot was lost in translation but we loved their enthusiasm. We made our own marionettes – Christmas presents for the grand-daughters (one problem solved). 

We watched in awe as young men pounded gold leaf as fine as skin for hours, and visited the Mahamuni Pagoda where Rob added his golden contribution to the Buddha (women are not permitted to do so.) We visited the World’s Largest Book at the Kuthodaw Pagoda and caught our breath under the shade of a bodhi tree.

In Mandalay we boarded the Sanctuary Ananda. Talk about Nirvana. This five star boat was our home for the next 4 days, and it took a lot of will power to leave it in Bagan. Everything about it is excellent. The accommodation is luxurious, the food exquisite, the excursions just long enough to make you want to return ‘home’, and the staff were amazing. The Irrawaddy River was full to bursting from

the recent floods and the boat floated lazily from destination to destination. We stopped at Amarapura, walked the U BeinBridge, drank champagne in gondolas on the Taungthaman Lake. We bounced in ox carts along bumpy roads to the unfinished Mingun Pagoda. 

We learnt how to wrap ourselves in knots in our longyis and paint our faced with thanaka. We had cooking classes with Chef Sumat (who nearly came home in my suitcase), and learnt the history of Myanmar with our host, Tim Buma (who is also a South African). Our last night was on the shores at Bagan where we had dinner under the stars on the muddy banks of the Irrawaddy. If I ever run away from home, this is probably where you will find me! There were only 13 people on board (40% full) and we had a fun, fine time.

We came down to earth with a three star thud in Bagan. It was piping hot and I chose to escape to our mediocre accommodation until the weather was kinder. Rob found a great street café and dragged me out to eat a delicious meal for less than R5….(hardly worth mentioning the dollar value!). We visited an agricultural village called Minnanthu and wandered through homesteads going about their daily chores. 

Later on we stopped at numerous temples eventually settling on the upper terrace of Sulamani Temple to watch the sun set over the magnificent plains of Bagan.

One note of caution. As in every destination, where tourists have descended, there is a frenzy of willing vendors wanting to sell flowers, postcards and badly made curios. They can spoil the experience. Despite our inclination to respect their opportunistic behaviour my tolerance wore thin towards the end.

Last stop. Yangon. Back to where we started. I confess that I was pretty exhausted by now. The heat had got to me and the whole experience – the different culture, food and pace – was quite overwhelming.

The traffic in Yangon was challenged by ‘Good Johnny’s’ driving skills. We bought curios, and a stunning painting at Scott Market. We spent hours with gaping wonder at the Shwedagon Pagoda (hopping from one cool slab to another) and set birds free (much to my horror) at the colossal reclining Buddha statue at Kyauk Htat Gyi Pagoda. We caught our breath at the hotel poolside over-looking the Kandawgyi Park and prior to our midnight departure gathered our thoughts, our longyis and memorabilia before heading home.

In November 2015 Myanmar held their democratic elections where NLD leader Aung San Suu Kyi won without contest.

BOOKINGS WERE MADE WITH:

Wai Lin
Backyard Travel Myanmar

Tel. +959 503 297 8
Skype: wailin.myanmar
Email: wailin@backyardtravel.com

 Backyard Travel
www.backyardtravel.com

Visit our blog. Follow us on Facebook & Twitter

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

WEBSITE: https://sites.google.com/site/loiskuhle/

Celebrating Community Spirit and Success!

Jozini Tiger Lodge & Spa, on the banks of the glorious Lake Jozini in northern Zululand, has good reason to celebrate. They were recently awarded “CONTINENT WINNERS – LUXURY HOTEL AND CONFERENCE CENTRE” at the World Luxury Hotel Awards, held in Hong Kong on 24^th October 2015.

The World Luxury Hotel and Spa Awards are recognised as the pinnacle of achievement for Luxury Hotels & Spas worldwide. 

These Awards are a celebration of ultimate achievement in service excellence, and acknowledge hotels and spas that have excelled beyond the normal call of duty.

Awards are presented to luxury hotels in different categories on a country, continent and global basis. Voting is cast by hotel guests, and based on facilities and service excellence.

“Jozini Tiger Lodge & Spa is no longer just a hotel on the banks of Lake Jozini,” announced Cobus Brecher, Managing Director, “It has become a serious contender and competitor within the luxury hotel market.”

They certainly deserve to be proud. A mere 5 years ago, in March 2010, the new built Jozini Tiger Lodge & Spa opened its doors. This was a dream project developed by local entrepreneurs Cobus Brecher and Albert Lourens. Their vision included involving the National Empowerment Fund (NEF) to finance the community’s share. 

80% of the staff were from the local community, having never worked in the hotel industry. They have since had the pleasure of witnessing the hotel successfully evolve. Jozini Tiger Lodge and Spa is reputed for its exceptional service and friendly staff. Without their enormous contribution this award would not have been possible. The staff complement has expanded over the past five years as occupancies grew beyond expectation. Equally rewarding has been the transformation, growth and eventual promotion of some of the original staff into management positions.

The hotel also forms part of the AHA portfolio who look after the Sales and Marketing of the property. Occupancy levels are in excess of 76% with groups and conferencing markets forming a major contribution.

The Jozini Tiger Estate, adjacent to the Jozini Tiger Lodge, will be launched imminently. The Estate offers the only freehold sites and sectional title apartments overlooking the dam. A variety of home design options are available. Spectacular views, abundant leisure facilities, a rich diversity of wildlife and tourism opportunities provide an exclusive estate experience www.jozinitigerestate.co.za

The view of the dam, the surroundings, the décor and the facilities makes the four star Jozini Tiger Lodge & Spa an ideal venue for special events and weddings or simply a break away from city life. For those wishing to chill, the pool and spa facility is just the place to be. Lake Jozini, often referred to as South Africa’s Lake Kariba, is home to the southernmost population of Tiger fish in Africa and fishing for this elusive but ferocious predator draws fishermen from far!   

Jozini Tiger Lodge was alongside Amakhosi Safari Lodge, also from northern Zululand, and among the 200 winners in over 50 categories who were applauded at the gala dinner at the exclusive Harbour Grand Hotel in Hong Kong.  This surely warrants the 

#makingzululandproud!

Tel: +27 (0)35 572 1020/22

Fax: +27 (0)35 572 1114

1 Main Road, Jozini, Kwa-Zulu Natal, 3969

Website: www.jozinitigerlodge.co.za

Website: www.threecities.co.za or www.ahagroup.co.za

http://www.luxuryhotelawards.com

Farmers and Biowatch say no to GMOs 

and prepare to march against Monsanto

 On Saturday 23 May 2015, Biowatch South Africa 

and rural farmers in northern KZN 

will join the global March Against Monsanto, 

saying loudly and clearly: No to GMOs; No to industrial agriculture; 

No to the corporate control of our seeds and our food. 

 The March Against Monsanto (MAM) is a global protest against Monsanto and GMOs. Since the first march in 2013, MAM has grown into an international grassroots movement and at least 428 cities in 38 countries around the world are expected to take part in MAM 2015.

Although this global protest targets Monsanto because it represents some of the worst products and practices, it is also aimed at other agribusiness multinationals responsible for the globally damaging industrial agriculture system. The other major corporations profiting from toxic agricultural chemicals and GMOs are Bayer, Syngenta, BASF, Dow Agroscience and DuPont Pioneer.

Why we will be marching

There is increasing evidence of GMOs creating environmental and health risks and having dubious economic advantages: promised crop yields failing to materialise, increased dependency on pesticides, and contamination of farmers’ seeds.

“Even those farmers and consumers who reject GMOs and industrial agriculture are at risk of having their seeds, water and soil contaminated by unwanted genes and poisons because these products cannot be contained once they have been released in the environment,” said Rose Williams, Biowatch director.

“The corporate control of seeds and the food system makes farmers and society dependent. GMOs are yet another technology that furthers the industrialisation of agriculture, replacing ecologically and culturally appropriate and diverse traditional seeds, foods and farming methods to make farmers and consumers dependent on a limited and expensive range of corporate products. This industrialisation makes communities economically vulnerable to hunger and puts the entire food system at risk of collapse in the context of disease outbreaks and climate change,” she said.

The products of industrial agriculture, 

including GMOs and pesticides, 

cannot co-exist alongside agro-ecological farming and must be rejected.   

Biowatch and rural KZN farmers go to Parliament to contest proposed seed Bills

On Friday, 15 May 2015 Biowatch South Africa, along with representatives of rural northern KwaZulu-Natal farmers, will give oral submissions at the Public Hearings on the recently tabled Plant Breeders’ Rights Bill and Plant Improvement Bill. The hearings will take place in Parliament, Cape Town.

Biowatch is working with small-holder farmers in northern KwaZulu-Natal, supporting them to revive, enhance and multiply their own seed, to use agro-ecology to improve their soil and yields and to build community knowledge and cohesion. 

As such, Biowatch is advocating for a regulatory framework that acknowledges the importance of the informal seed system and the support that small-holder farmers should get to enhance this system and the associated knowledge and agro-biodiversity that it mutually supports.

“It is the duty of the South African Parliament to approve seed policies that will benefit the majority of its population. Preceding any consideration of a law that gives private ownership to what used to be commonly held for centuries is the recognition that private commercial rights can never override the rights of farmers and humankind to save seed and to grow food which feeds communities,” said Rose Williams, Biowatch director.

“In the absence of any policy or legislation that recognises and provides legal space for the vital contribution of the informal seed sector, public breeding and conservation activities, seed regulations and trade laws have become tools aimed at preventing farmers from producing seeds independently. These laws are prescribing uniformity not only in plant varieties but also in farming and cropping systems and have led to the erosion of genetic diversity and in the process narrowed down the options for farmers and food security,” she said.

“Seed regulations have evolved to become increasingly restrictive and are now used in tandem with plant breeders’ rights to protect the interests of seed companies and private breeders at the expense of agro-biodiversity and the independence of farmers,” said Elfrieda Pschorn-Strauss, co-ordinator of the Seed and Knowledge Initiative (SKI), a collaboration between Biowatch, the Mupo Foundation and the Bio-economy SARChl Chair at the University of Cape Town.

“It is therefore critically important to consider and determine the impact that seed regulatory systems developed for industrialised, commercial agriculture has had and will have on the informal seed sector, small-holder farmers, conservation and public breeding priorities,” she said. 

The changes to these Bills must also be seen within the context of South Africa playing a leading role in regional agreements that will impact on farmers in all SADC countries. The SADC Draft Protocol for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants as it currently stands restricts the rights of farmers to save and reuse seed and all SADC countries may be forced to change their legislation to comply.  

Biowatch’s written submissions are available on its website.

·        Submission on the draft Plant Improvement Bill: http://www.biowatch.org.za/docs/subs/2015/PI%20Bill%20written%20submission%20to%20Parliament%20May%202015-1.pdf

·        Submission on the Plant Breeders’ Rights Bill: http://www.biowatch.org.za/docs/subs/2015/PBR%20written%20submission%20to%20Parliament%20May%202015.pdf  

MARCH AGAINST MONSANTO

A pocket of farmers in northern Zululand are preparing to March Against Monsanto on the 23rd May 2015. They are not alone. At least 428 cities in 38 countries around the world will be marching in solidarity against the monster Monsanto.

Whilst Monsanto has been successful in muddling the heads of the consumers when it comes to understanding the scientific properties of GMOs and the toxic chemicals that have earned them millions, the agro-ecology farmers in Zululand are sure of one thing. They don’t want GMOs or Monsanto's chemicals. They want to continue farming as their ancestors have done and they want to save and own their own seeds.

Agro-ecology projects have cropped up in varies areas around Pongola, Kwangwanase, Ingwavuma, Tshaneni and Mtubatuba. They have wonderful names like ‘Thandazusebenze’ (pray and work) and are driven mainly by formidable Zulu women who will stop at nothing to protect their families and feed them good healthy food. These projects receive invaluable support from Biowatch South Africa which was established in 1999 as an environmental justice NGO. Biowatch works with small-holder farmers, other civil society organisations and government to ensure that people have control over their food, agricultural processes and resources, and other natural resources, within a bio-diverse, agro-ecological and sustainable system.

It has been devastating for rural farmers to learn of the dangers of GMOs and the long term effects of toxic chemicals like DDT that have been so prevalent in some areas. Large companies hold impoverished communities hostage by providing staple diets like mielie meal and soya that are riddled with GMOs. Ownership of seed is a major factor and this cannot be taken away from the farmer. The methods employed by adopting GM seeds requires mono cropping and relying on expensive seeds, pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers. This is completely contrary to the organic methods these farmers wish to continue with, that preserve the environment, are organic and chemical free and most importantly it ensures seed preservation. Contamination is a major factor not only in the environment but between seeds.

The products of industrial agriculture cannot co-exist alongside agro-ecology farming and must be rejected.

As environmentally aware consumers 

we implore you to 

support this march.

Useful links:

www.march-against-monsanto.com

http://www.biowatch.org.za/

Follow them on facebook too.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

WEBSITE: https://sites.google.com/site/loiskuhle/

FUND RAISING AT FALAZA

Our good friend Grant Tracy from Tracy & du Plessis Game Capture herded some of his good friends to feed on the fine fare at Falaza Game Park & Spa this weekend.

Not only were we well fed and watered, but we were also supporting a good cause, fund raising for rhino anti-poaching. To some this may seem like the ‘same old, same old’ but what is impressive about this particular campaign is that it is information intelligence driven. Using information intelligently, so to speak.

Hluhluwe game farmers are in the midst of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife reserves and are particularly vulnerable to poaching. A group of farmers formed the Munyawana Conservation Fund 2 years ago. It consists of 6 directors drawn from this area, and includes members of some of the illustrious private game reserves (&Beyond Phinda Game Reserve, Zululand Rhino Reserve and Zulu Nyala Game Lodge – just to name drop one or two). 

The spike in rhino poaching 4 years ago prompted this community to find a way of effectively curbing the decimation of rhino. They introduced a strategy of ‘keeping it simple’ and by using useful information on the ground they have developed a strong network which enables them to know what is going on. This costs money. And sometimes, a lot of it.

In the past two years they have 25 recorded incidents leading to potential rhino poaching. That’s 1 every month. The reward system for successful intervention and/ or arrests has paid off.  This has led to 56 arrests and a number of poacher fatalities; 25 high caliber weapons,113 rounds of ammunition, 21 vehicles, 14 silencers and 16 axes have been confiscated.

This dedicated team of people, passionate about rhino conservation, work pro-bono and no funds are used for administration costs.

Every donated cent counts and our delicious dinner at Falaza contributed 25% towards this incredibly effective cause.

For more information contact:

Simon Naylor -  simon.naylor@andbeyond.com

Grant Tracy – office@tdgamecapture.co.za

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

WEBSITE: https://sites.google.com/site/loiskuhle/

NOT JUST CANEFIELDS

It’s a healthy exercise to see your city through the eyes of a tourist. I had good company this morning. Anni Ballieu, a travel agent, was visiting from Australia and our competent guide, and good friend, was Lori Kelly from Zulu Sun Safaris.

Durban, we feel, is frequently undersold. As a destination we fight against the good marketing done by Cape Town, Sun City and Kruger National Park. But don’t underestimate the power of the bush, beach and berg experience offered by KwaZulu-Natal.

But today we did a city tour of Durban. I live north of the Umgeni River in Umhlanga, and anything south of the river is not on my roadmap, unless absolutely necessary. My eyes were opened and I loved getting to know my city with the help of a well-seasoned guide.

Anni’s interest was in the golfing opportunities on offer. Frequently, after a long safari either in Botswana, Zim or Zambia, clients are keen to hit a few balls on manicured courses. And Durban has plenty to offer. 

Yesterday we bimbled north, on the scenic M4, to Zimbali CoastalResort with its five star golf course. It has so much to offer with great accommodation, either in the 2 luxurious Fairmont hotels or equally stylish self-catering homes.

40 odd kilometres away, Durban has its fair share of golf courses. Mt. Edgecombe Country Club, Durban CC, Beachwood and Grayville.

We ascended the Sky Car at Moses Mabhida Stadium to get a feel for the texture of Durban. The stadium itself is so impressive and the view shows off Durban at its best. We declined the opportunity to bungy jump.

Below us was the Sun Coast Casino. South Africa has a plethora of Miami style casinos where you can double or lose your holiday allowance.

In the comfort of our air-conditioned kombi, sparing us the balmy Durban weather, we ambled along the ‘Golden Mile’ which is actually about 4 miles long. Although not a first choice for accommodation, the esplanade underwent a massive face lift for the 2010 Soccer World Cup. It has become a popular play-ground for all Durbanites with great facilities, a fun place to walk, ride bikes and surf.

Our only negative experience was with a rickshaw driver who willingly posed for photos and scoffed at our ‘tip’. Be sure to negotiate a price before snapping away with your camera.

Old Point Road, now Mahatma Ghandi Road used to be a den of iniquity, and home to scoundrels and prostitutes. It has been cleaned up and beautiful old buildings restored to turn it into a cosmopolitan area. Across the bay the lush protected forest of the Bluff remains untouched. The traditional Zulu name for Bluff is isibubulungu, meaning a long, round-shaped ridge. It also means "white man’s bluff", which may be a reference to habitation by shipwreck survivors.

Wilson’s Wharf with its incomparable harbour views is Durban's trendiest fusion of fun food, top shows and crafts, blended with the rustic interface of a boating marina and working slipways.

We headed into town towards the Indian Market where I had a Cinderella moment and found a fab pair of leather shoes for a mere R150. It was a pleasant experience without the haggling and hussling so prevalent in many African markets.

We rounded off our tour with a drive down Florida Road with its tree lined road displaying restored Victorian and Edwardian buildings boasting over 2km of restaurants, pubs, clubs, art galleries and eclectic little shops. There is something to do 24/7 and should definitely be on your to-do list when visiting Durban.

As we headed north over the Umgeni River back ‘home’ to Umhlanga, I felt confident that my Aussie visitor would have a positive and impressionable memory of Durban, an elegant, mature and ambitious city. It is a trendsetter in offering great lifestyle, speckled with adventure activities, blessed with natural beauty and an astonishingly liveable city.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler