THE HAPPY CAMPER

I confess that I generally believe camping is for the birds….and the screeching cicadas. 

We were invited by wonderful friends to join them at Bhanga Nek. 

A place so remote and iSimangaliso WetlandsPark’s best kept secret, 

which I promised to keep. 

So, please eat this note as soon as you have read it.

First trick is to get detailed directions, otherwise you will never get to point B. 

There are no helpful signs and the best thing is to follow the track most traveled.

The camp site belongs to the community. We were there 10 years ago and I fear not a bit of maintenance has been done since then. However, we will forgive it, as the position is absolutely idyllic. The exquisite beaches, devoid of any other life form except the tracks of turtles, were declared by adventurer Kingsley Holgate to be the best in the world.

The sea is beautiful, but one needs to be careful. The strong rip can wash you out with the turtles and the incoming tide delivers waves powerful enough to clean out your sinuses and other orifices.

Our mess tent area was kept tidy by Msimango, a well-spoken gent who doubled up as our turtle guide. 

Under the glow of the almost full moon we headed north along the beach in search of egg-laying turtles. Hoping to trip over them close to home we eventually trekked 8kms – there and back. The company was great, the moon brilliant, the sea inviting and the turtles eventually appeared. 

We watched mama loggerhead lay her 100+ eggs, then, seemingly exhausted she caught the next wave home. In the light of day we saw that many turtles had been ashore to lay. Just think of all those babies slowly developing under the hot sand, soon to scamper into the ocean to their destiny, either as dinner or as a survivor.

It never ceases to amaze me why campers spend their year working hard to earn whacks of money to come to a place so primitive, not even Eskom could make us miserable.
There is no electricity.

After a couple of days in Bhanga Nek I realised why.

We did beach things like henna our hands, make sushi and play bananas. Bliss.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

Name dropping in Zululand

It's a wine affair.

When Zululanders get together for wine club it tends to be a jolly affair. Our particular wine club has been in existence for close to 23 years, with members coming and going, and a hard core that has quaffed through the past 21 years. 

Larry & Anita Stevens, originally from Mkuze, have religiously attended, as has the oldest teenager in Zululand, Rob Stock (he’s 61 BTW).

Left: Larry with Gavin and Bridget Dixon from Hluhluwe River Lodge.

We don’t pretend to know our wines, although as the evening progresses we do become cleverer. Our notes prove it. If you can read them. And, yes, we do have a ‘Wine File.’

Grant and Colette Tracy, of Tracy & Du PlessisGame Capture, hosted our November tasting.

The vineyard chosen was Rijk’s in Tulbach. Colette was doing a bit of name dropping as the wine maker, Pierre Wahl, is aangenaaide familie. An Afrikaans expression claiming complicated family connections. Marriage is involved somewhere along the line.

Rijk's produces older vintage fine food wines to satisfy the sophisticated palate of wine enthusiasts from around the world. Elegance, finesse, complexity and concentration of fruit are the hallmarks of their wines. And they didn’t disappoint our experienced palates.

Our host, Grant, took his presentation very seriously, having invested heavily in these somewhat pricey wines that had been shipped to Zululand for this function. He was constantly interrupted by a bleating baby goat desperate for her next bottle, followed by the baa-ing of her companion, an orphaned lamb. Both confused as to whether they are sheep, goat, dog, chicken or human.This was accompanied by a rather ruffled cockerel who had clearly lost his last fight. 
To top it all, the gods were moving furniture. Being farmers, we temporarily lost concentration. The promise of rain does that to us. We were rewarded with a huge clap of thunder and a bolt of lightning …. and a spot of rain. 

Such is life in Zululand.

But I digress.

We were treated to Rijk’s signature varieties being 
Chenin Blanc, Pinotage and Shiraz. 
Each having 3 categories:

Larry, who normally sniffs at a Pinotage, found it challenging to criticize this fine wine.

We sipped, we tasted, we inhaled the perfect bouquets and 
we all agreed that every single wine we tasted was delicious.

Speaking of which, we then had an amazing lunch produced by Colette.

The next morning, with hardly a hangover between us (good wine is kind like that) we wandered around the farm with its many creatures. Some of whom are porkers. I confess that I ooh-ed and aah-ed at the piglets and exclaimed 
“OMG is that what we ate yesterday?” 
We had beef. 
Well, that was awkward.

‘till we meet again, cheers, and thanks Grant and Col 
for another memorable wine tasting!

Above: Brian and Denise Blevin from Shayamoya

Below: Author with the oldest teenager in Zululand. 

Peering through God’s Window

It seemed as though the whole of Zululand and most of Swaziland was on fire as we spluttered our way across the smoke shrouded countryside. Such a shame as we were hoping to show off the undulating hills of Swaziland to our Kenyan guest. We slipped through the border at Onverwacht, which is much quieter and friendlier than Golela.

After visiting The House on Fire (a favourite), Swazi Candles, and much to my delight, finding a great nursery selling organic seeds and rhubarb, we settled in at Reilly’s Rock in Milwane Game Reserve. 

Although the view was still marred by smoke we delighted in watching klipspringer, blue duiker and suni enjoying mielies scattered in the lush gardens. We joined Mamba (yes, his real name) as he fed bush-babies who scampered down the tin roof for a feast of bananas. 

Ted Reilly joined us for dinner. 

He is a national treasure of Swaziland, and son of Mick Reilly, who built the original house in the early 1900’s to acquire a wife. 

Spending time with Ted is always such a treat and a privilege.

In the morning we went to the Roan camps which house 3 generations of antelope being prepared for release into the wild. Exquisite blue cranes, resembling porcelain statues, wonder around, their damaged wings rendering them unable to fly, but secure in this sanctuary.

We headed north, stopping at Ngwenya Glass and onto Bulembu – just passed Pigg’s Peak. If your car can withstand 17kms of rough road it is so worth the visit. 

This once abandoned asbestos mining town has a clear vision to become a vibrant, sustainable community which raises HIV/ AIDs orphans. They have a quaint lodge, profits of which support the project, and their home grown honey is to die for.

Our home for the next couple of nights was Gunyatoo Trout Farm & Lodge in the Rhenosterhoek Valley between Sabie and Lydenburg. We nested comfortably in their log cabin, spending the chilly evenings around a fire. 

From here we visited Sabie Falls (disappointing), Mac Mac Falls, the Pinnacle, Sudwala Caves and God’s Window. The smoke was still hanging in the air, but we managed to stare in awe at the Three Rondavels. We had been persuaded not to stay at Pilgrim’s Rest but were disappointed we had not taken a chance. It remains a charming, unusual village. We went in search of the wild horses at Kaapsehoop and eventually found them. We also managed to buy some great organic veg at a small farmer’s market.

The Pinnacle

Pilgrim's Rest

The Three Rondavels

Wild horses @ Kaapsehoop (Don't feed the horses!)

Comfy log cabin at Gunyatoo

Our last night was spent with friends who run Shandon Lodge in Nelspruit. Combine an elegant English lass and a mischievous old advertising exec and you have your entertainment for the night. Jane and Tony Gunstone run a classy place, not adverse to a little bit of revelry.

We loved our glimpse through God’s Window 

and marveled at our beautiful country.

Useful links:

Reilly’s Rock, Swaziland: http://www.biggameparks.org/reilly/

Gunyatoo Trout Farm & Lodge: www.gunyatoo.com

Shandon Lodge: http://shandon.co.za/

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

Love Life

Live Healthy

(Pic: professionals from Siloah at Pakamisa Private Game Reserve)

Siloah Lutheran TB Hospital is just outside Louwsberg in a remote setting called Ehlomohlomo. This clinic has saved many South African lives, and I can personally vouch for that. One of my staff members was seriously ill with TB and AIDs, and they pulled her through (her CD4 count was 5!!! A healthy person’s is 1,000). 

Today she is a strapping young lass holding down a good job.

In northern Zululand TB and HIV/ AIDs has taken its toll. 

Education and a healthy lifestyle are huge contributors to halting this epidemic.

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve invited Siloah in September 2013 to do a workshop for their staff of 35. They repeated the process again this year. Today’s clinic was a huge success now that the employees are more acquainted with the Siloah professionals.

As one ranger said “It is good to know this information. We have learnt a lot and we will share it with our communities. It is important to know your status.”

5 German volunteers, working at Pakamisa, were amazed at this level of interaction. “We really appreciated being involved. I have not seen this been done in Europe for HIV/ AIDs awareness. Sure, we practice safe sex, but that’s to protect us against STDs and unwanted pregnancies. There were some awkward moments during the lectures, but I was amazed how open everyone was and the number of questions that were asked.”

Sister Dlamini, from Siloah, was also very pleased with the success of today’s clinic and felt that a partnership and a bond has been established between Siloah and Pakamisa, and this will surely lead to a healthier lifestyle.

Siloah is only funded by the Department of Health as their contract with USAID recently expired. The hospital has 145 beds. Occupancy is seasonal with the hotter months being higher. Most patients are admitted for 2 months for full recovery. This period has been shortened now that oral medication for TB is available and treatment can be administered at home. 

Patients qualify for ARVs immediately, if necessary. There is no waiting period.

It is encouraging that lodges in remote areas, like Pakamisa, are enabling their staff to have access to this level of education and treatment.

Indeed – love life, live healthy.

Amen.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

BACK IN THE SADDLE…AGAIN

If the truth be told, the last time I sat firmly in the saddle must have been 25 years ago. I was in my late 20’s getting over a broken heart. A girlfriend had this bright idea that we should take up horse riding and I struggled through a few lessons, finally giving up, deciding that a broken heart was easier to mend than aching thighs.

I have known Isabella Stepski from Pakamisa for 14 years and have always admired her beautiful Arab horses, and longed for the day when I could ride through the pristine bushveld at Pakamisa viewing game.

September is such a gorgeous month in Zululand. The air is crisp, not too hot, and ideal for game viewing.

I rode Apache, a gentleman of a horse, who patiently carried me on our hour and a half amble. The other guests were also novices and we all felt extremely confident on our steeds. The Pakamisa horses (not all Arabs) are well schooled and used to meeting other four legged creatures. There are no predators or dangerous game on the reserve, so no fear of joining the food chain.

Isabella is fastidious about her tack. Her saddles are custom made for each horse. Out of the 33 horses 18 are under saddle. I confess that I did look with extreme envy at the accomplished riders, sitting so naturally on their horses. 

There is something special about the relationship between rider and horse.

We allowed the horses several pub stops. Water is extremely important in our warm, dusty climate. That done, we weaved our way through tamboti forests, following animal tracks and on farm roads. We saw zebra, impala, giraffe (a Pakamisa signature), kudu, duiker and wildebeest. All the game was so calm and it was wonderful to be at one with them.

A flock of ostrich has taken up residence around the stables. 

Mum and dad proudly guarding their 11 new hatchlings.

I slipped off my steed, sorry that the ride was over. Isabella has a group of young volunteers who are kind and efficient. Together we unsaddled the horses and rewarded them with a good brushing. 
Apache thanked me with nuzzling kisses and almost fell asleep during his preening!

It was a wonderful morning. 

Well worth repeating.

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve is just outside Pongola in Zululand, South Africa. www.pakamisa.co.za

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

TWITTER: https://twitter.com/loiskuhle

AFRICA – EAT YOUR RUBBISH. LITERALLY

We recently hosted some German friends and showed them our wonderful country. Or should I say  – our dustbin of a country. How embarrassing to plough our way through heaps of rubbish between Jozini and Kosi Bay. From Durban to Estcourt. Zululand, Midlands, Mozambique – you name it – they have one thing in common. It’s one big rubbish tip. Sis on you South Africa.

Threaded through this maze of rubbish are goats and cattle, standing in the way of trash being hurled out of taxis, cars, bakkies and buses. You can measure the eating habits of the affluent few who have force fed themselves on urban take-aways. It’s probably 8kms out of town – then whoosh out the window it goes. Sis on you South Africa.

Pacovis (http://www.pacovis.de) has an amazing solution for our bad table manners. They produce disposable packaging made from biodegradable products like palm leaves, sugar cane fibre and starch. Africa, you can throw your rubbish out the window as much as you like, let the goats and cattle munch on it without twisting their insides – and by killing two birds with one carton (so to speak) - we can manage our waste disposal problems whilst feeding the vagrant herbivores.

 

Consumers – use your voice – insist that biodegradable products are used by retailers, fast food outlets and large companies that rely on packaging.

 

 

We owe it to our animals, wildlife and domestic (believe me the game reserves don’t escape this disgusting throw away habit), and we owe it to our environment. We owe it to our country. 

No more sis on you South Africa.

SO, AFRICA – EAT YOUR RUBBISH. LITERALLY.

All the products shown are biodegradable and edible – if you are that way inclined!

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler
TWITTER: https://twitter.com/loiskuhle

LIFE’S A BEACH…..BARK

Particularly when you are a beach dog in 

Ponta D'Ouro, Mozambique. 

At first sight the dogs at Ponta d’Ouro look healthy and happy. And they are. 

But it took a lot of effort and support to get them in this condition.

Some people still struggle with the concept of stray dogs on the beach, and some (like us) love our morning walks with up to 8 dogs gadding around.

The beach gazebos seem to have a banded deal – rent a gazebo and get a dog – often two or three. These will be your dogs for the day and they will fiercely guard their temporary shelter.

Their parentage has been quite distinct. A virile Ridgeback has left his mark on many a young pup, whilst a brindle lad also seemed to have romanced on the beach. With frequent sterilisation puppies have been controlled.
Protect Ponta is an NGO set up to assist animals in the Ponta d’Ouro and Malongane areas. Frequent fund raising has provided medical and clinical care for dogs. They work with MAPS (Mozambique Animal Protection Society) from Maputo to run rabies and sterilisation clinics.

Food is purchased on a monthly basis and the dogs are fed at The Whaler in the Ponta d’Ouro caravan park.

Most dogs you encounter on the beach are sterilised and immunised on a regular basis. Having them there protects the area from other strays as their territory is marked with determination.

So, if you are going to Ponta d’Ouro or Malongane please give a thought to these dogs and take a bag of dog food through to The Whaler.

September is World Rabies Month and Protect Ponta, in conjunction with MAPS, 

will be running a rabies drive in Malongane and Zitundo 

on the 13 and 14th September 2014. 

Funding is desperately needed.

Donations in food or cash are most welcome.

Contact Shannon at Protect Ponta: 082 464 3223

Follow them on facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Protect-Ponta/170790959649113

https://www.facebook.com/MozambiqueAnimalProtectionSociety

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Whaler-Mozambique/137960419604949

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT. http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

TWITTER: https://twitter.com/loiskuhle

SNUG AS A BUG IN A RUG

St. Michael's Anglican Church in Umhlanga Rocks took the Milimani Educational Trust and their tiny souls under its wing this winter to appeal for blankets, jerseys, beanies and anything warm.

The response has been overwhelming and Lois Kuhle, from Milimani Educational Trust, took bags of goodies to the communities in Sovane and KwaDla-Kuse.

On the 18th June members of the community were there to meet us and the singing, praying and ululations gave us goose bumps! The kids, with wide brown eyes, were wrapped up, dressed up and kept warm. The joy on the children's faces was a picture - so seldom do they receive anything new.

It was just in time for the cold winter snap that passed through Zululand.

Among all the gifts was a notebook computer. As electricity is not in every home (or any home for that matter) it seemed appropriate to donate it to the clinic. 



We also had a bag full of babies clothes, kindly knitted by the lovely ladies at Twilanga Retirement Village in Umhlanga. Once again the gratitude of the staff was amazing. 

Thank you everyone at St. Michael's for your enormous generosity. These communities in Zululand will remember you for a long time.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT. http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler
TWITTER: https://twitter.com/loiskuhle