Peering through God’s Window

It seemed as though the whole of Zululand and most of Swaziland was on fire as we spluttered our way across the smoke shrouded countryside. Such a shame as we were hoping to show off the undulating hills of Swaziland to our Kenyan guest. We slipped through the border at Onverwacht, which is much quieter and friendlier than Golela.

After visiting The House on Fire (a favourite), Swazi Candles, and much to my delight, finding a great nursery selling organic seeds and rhubarb, we settled in at Reilly’s Rock in Milwane Game Reserve. 

Although the view was still marred by smoke we delighted in watching klipspringer, blue duiker and suni enjoying mielies scattered in the lush gardens. We joined Mamba (yes, his real name) as he fed bush-babies who scampered down the tin roof for a feast of bananas. 

Ted Reilly joined us for dinner. 

He is a national treasure of Swaziland, and son of Mick Reilly, who built the original house in the early 1900’s to acquire a wife. 

Spending time with Ted is always such a treat and a privilege.

In the morning we went to the Roan camps which house 3 generations of antelope being prepared for release into the wild. Exquisite blue cranes, resembling porcelain statues, wonder around, their damaged wings rendering them unable to fly, but secure in this sanctuary.

We headed north, stopping at Ngwenya Glass and onto Bulembu – just passed Pigg’s Peak. If your car can withstand 17kms of rough road it is so worth the visit. 

This once abandoned asbestos mining town has a clear vision to become a vibrant, sustainable community which raises HIV/ AIDs orphans. They have a quaint lodge, profits of which support the project, and their home grown honey is to die for.

Our home for the next couple of nights was Gunyatoo Trout Farm & Lodge in the Rhenosterhoek Valley between Sabie and Lydenburg. We nested comfortably in their log cabin, spending the chilly evenings around a fire. 

From here we visited Sabie Falls (disappointing), Mac Mac Falls, the Pinnacle, Sudwala Caves and God’s Window. The smoke was still hanging in the air, but we managed to stare in awe at the Three Rondavels. We had been persuaded not to stay at Pilgrim’s Rest but were disappointed we had not taken a chance. It remains a charming, unusual village. We went in search of the wild horses at Kaapsehoop and eventually found them. We also managed to buy some great organic veg at a small farmer’s market.

The Pinnacle

Pilgrim's Rest

The Three Rondavels

Wild horses @ Kaapsehoop (Don't feed the horses!)

Comfy log cabin at Gunyatoo

Our last night was spent with friends who run Shandon Lodge in Nelspruit. Combine an elegant English lass and a mischievous old advertising exec and you have your entertainment for the night. Jane and Tony Gunstone run a classy place, not adverse to a little bit of revelry.

We loved our glimpse through God’s Window 

and marveled at our beautiful country.

Useful links:

Reilly’s Rock, Swaziland: http://www.biggameparks.org/reilly/

Gunyatoo Trout Farm & Lodge: www.gunyatoo.com

Shandon Lodge: http://shandon.co.za/

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

Love Life

Live Healthy

(Pic: professionals from Siloah at Pakamisa Private Game Reserve)

Siloah Lutheran TB Hospital is just outside Louwsberg in a remote setting called Ehlomohlomo. This clinic has saved many South African lives, and I can personally vouch for that. One of my staff members was seriously ill with TB and AIDs, and they pulled her through (her CD4 count was 5!!! A healthy person’s is 1,000). 

Today she is a strapping young lass holding down a good job.

In northern Zululand TB and HIV/ AIDs has taken its toll. 

Education and a healthy lifestyle are huge contributors to halting this epidemic.

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve invited Siloah in September 2013 to do a workshop for their staff of 35. They repeated the process again this year. Today’s clinic was a huge success now that the employees are more acquainted with the Siloah professionals.

As one ranger said “It is good to know this information. We have learnt a lot and we will share it with our communities. It is important to know your status.”

5 German volunteers, working at Pakamisa, were amazed at this level of interaction. “We really appreciated being involved. I have not seen this been done in Europe for HIV/ AIDs awareness. Sure, we practice safe sex, but that’s to protect us against STDs and unwanted pregnancies. There were some awkward moments during the lectures, but I was amazed how open everyone was and the number of questions that were asked.”

Sister Dlamini, from Siloah, was also very pleased with the success of today’s clinic and felt that a partnership and a bond has been established between Siloah and Pakamisa, and this will surely lead to a healthier lifestyle.

Siloah is only funded by the Department of Health as their contract with USAID recently expired. The hospital has 145 beds. Occupancy is seasonal with the hotter months being higher. Most patients are admitted for 2 months for full recovery. This period has been shortened now that oral medication for TB is available and treatment can be administered at home. 

Patients qualify for ARVs immediately, if necessary. There is no waiting period.

It is encouraging that lodges in remote areas, like Pakamisa, are enabling their staff to have access to this level of education and treatment.

Indeed – love life, live healthy.

Amen.

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:

SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html

'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.

http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html

COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/

FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

BACK IN THE SADDLE…AGAIN

If the truth be told, the last time I sat firmly in the saddle must have been 25 years ago. I was in my late 20’s getting over a broken heart. A girlfriend had this bright idea that we should take up horse riding and I struggled through a few lessons, finally giving up, deciding that a broken heart was easier to mend than aching thighs.

I have known Isabella Stepski from Pakamisa for 14 years and have always admired her beautiful Arab horses, and longed for the day when I could ride through the pristine bushveld at Pakamisa viewing game.

September is such a gorgeous month in Zululand. The air is crisp, not too hot, and ideal for game viewing.

I rode Apache, a gentleman of a horse, who patiently carried me on our hour and a half amble. The other guests were also novices and we all felt extremely confident on our steeds. The Pakamisa horses (not all Arabs) are well schooled and used to meeting other four legged creatures. There are no predators or dangerous game on the reserve, so no fear of joining the food chain.

Isabella is fastidious about her tack. Her saddles are custom made for each horse. Out of the 33 horses 18 are under saddle. I confess that I did look with extreme envy at the accomplished riders, sitting so naturally on their horses. 

There is something special about the relationship between rider and horse.

We allowed the horses several pub stops. Water is extremely important in our warm, dusty climate. That done, we weaved our way through tamboti forests, following animal tracks and on farm roads. We saw zebra, impala, giraffe (a Pakamisa signature), kudu, duiker and wildebeest. All the game was so calm and it was wonderful to be at one with them.

A flock of ostrich has taken up residence around the stables. 

Mum and dad proudly guarding their 11 new hatchlings.

I slipped off my steed, sorry that the ride was over. Isabella has a group of young volunteers who are kind and efficient. Together we unsaddled the horses and rewarded them with a good brushing. 
Apache thanked me with nuzzling kisses and almost fell asleep during his preening!

It was a wonderful morning. 

Well worth repeating.

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve is just outside Pongola in Zululand, South Africa. www.pakamisa.co.za

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/loiskuhlescribbler

TWITTER: https://twitter.com/loiskuhle