MY HAPPY PLACE

Reilly's Rock Lodge in the Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Slipping across the border into Swaziland at Onverwacht feels like Alice going through the Looking Glass. It’s on the outskirts of Pongola (where we live) and going to Swaziland always makes me happy. It’s like exhaling and forgetting all that shitty stuff that’s happening this side of the border.

My bestest place on the planet is Reilly’s Rock in the Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Rob with Ruth & Lizzy

Our first stop after a warm greeting from Ruth and Lizzy at Reilly’s Rock is Milwane Hill, for a gin and tonic. The hill is fenced off to facilitate the breeding of endangered and locally threatened antelope, like roan, oribi, suni, red duiker and grysbok, as well as safeguarding the Royal Botanical Gardens featuring the Gilbert Reynolds Memorial Aloe Garden.

Majestic Roan

Suni, red duiker & a plethora of birds

Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge is the original home of the former Mickey Reilly. This quaintly colonial homestead has been converted into an intimate 6 roomed lodge. There are many colourful stories about Mickey Reilly, an entrepreneur who ran the McCreedy Tin Mines in the early 1900’s. This is where Ted Reilly grew up and his love and commitment to nature conservation took root.

Ted is one of God’s special people, and it’s always such a treat to spend time with him and his wife Liz. Their passion for Swaziland’s wildlife is immeasurable and their contribution a legacy. Ted is clearly a national treasure.

Red Tiger Lodge in Mkhaya Game Reserve
Now being restored to its former glory

Ted plays a major role in the future of Swaziland’s wildlife and his latest project is testimony that despite his 80 plus years, he has no intention of resting. Even some serious health issues could not stop him. Heading south towards Big Bend we stopped off at Mkhaya Game Reserve where we spent some precious time with Ted and Liz.

Showing us around the sites for the
proposed accommodation.
Ted, living on the edge, as usual

Red Tiger Ranch, formerly a section of the Massive Bar R Ranch, totaling 175,000 acres, originally belonged to Alister Miller, and Dr. Leo and Di Joubert built the original Red Tiger homestead in the 1940’s. The Reilly’s bought Red Tiger Ranch as an extension to Mkhaya Game Reserve in 1984. Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands has contributed generously to the reserve.

The natural pool.
Making sure no harm is done to any frogs

Young Bruce Joubert’s dream was to see the farm converted into a game reserve. The Reilly family has helped to realise this dream. The next owner after the Jouberts, a man named Khoza, inadvertently burnt down the homestead, leaving it abandoned and exposed to the elements for 40 years. Ted’s vision has been to resurrect it into a warm, functional place where I am sure many folk will make memories. We have watched the Red Tiger Lodge evolve and it has been a magical experience. Eventually Red Tiger Lodge will become Mkhaya’s reception and main gate entry point. The Reilly family is dedicated to sharing this truly spiritual wonder filled with an abundance of wildlife, lizards, frogs and the warmth of the Eswatini people.

The unusual name of the farm was because it is blessed with an abundance of Rooitier grass (Themeda triandra), a valuable resource. Directly translated from Afrikaans this is Red Tiger. This grass is a favoured fodder, high in nutrients and its dominance is a sure indication of healthy virgin veld.

Spectacular gin & tonic views

Red Tiger Lodge is still ‘under construction’ and will soon offer accommodation with the newly revamped homestead becoming the entertainment hub. The views across the reserve are stunning and I have no doubt this will become another of my bestest places to be.

For more information about Swaziland’s Big Game Parks click onto: https://biggameparks.org/

ZULULAND IS THE KING OF THE JUNGLE

South African tourists are easily intimidated by luxury lodge prices, and yet we yearn to be a part of the Big 5 exclusive gang. I have stayed in some of the more up market lodges that ask in the region of R18,000 per person per night. I don’t deny that this is a real treat and beyond anything we can ever dream of affording. There is no denying that this is luxury at its ultimate best.

Rhino Sands in the Manyoni Private Game Reserve, between Hluhluwe and Mkuze in KwaZulu-Natal offers luxury equal to those upmarket lodges found in the Kruger National Park area. The Big 5 experience can easily be matched and it is more affordable for the local tourist. Admittedly we have to dig deep to tick the box to have an exclusive game experience, where you are treated like the King of the Jungle, to feel special and support those who are striving to keep our wildlife alive. It is a once in a life-time experience and well worth saving your pennies to do.

Rhino Sands caters for only 8 guests in 4 luxury tents. The décor is magnificent, and the lodge is totally eco-friendly. This ticks a huge box for me. The lodge goes out of its way to make sure that attention to detail is done to the extreme, without being superficial. It is down to earth and loyal to the conservation effort the reserve strives to preserve.

At a third of the price of some of the lodges that appeal to international tourists, Rhino Sands has to be on your bucket list.

In 2004, 17 private properties in the northern Zululand area dropped their fences forming the Manyoni Private Game Reserve (formerly Zululand Rhino Reserve). The vision behind the reserve was to provide a home to a population of black rhinos as part of the WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Project. The joining of the properties created a 23,000-hectare private game reserve in the heart of Zululand, in one of the most animal-rich and species-diverse areas of South Africa.

In addition to the black rhinos, the reserve is now home to the big five (rhino, elephant, buffalo, leopard, lion) and has seen the re-introduction of two endangered carnivore species, cheetahs and African wild dogs. It is one of the premier wildlife-viewing destinations in Kwa-Zulu Natal and one of the most beautiful reserves in the area with varied landscapes from acacia thornveld to open savannah to riverine forest. Game drives on the reserve are regulated and coordinated by the ecotourism businesses to minimize the impact on the environment and the stress on the animals providing guests with a better and more intimate game viewing experience.

Find out more: https://rhinosands.com

CELEBRATING THE LITTLE 5 AT PAKAMISA

Chamu, the charming game ranger at Pakamisa took us on a journey to explore the Little 5. We always chase after the Big 5 – lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo – and rarely take any notice of the Little 5 – antlion, leopard tortoise, rhino beetle, elephant shrew and buffalo weaver.

On our evening bush walk we stumbled over lots of ant lion tracks. These squiggly drawings in the sand lead to a conical well, and inside is the tiny, yet ferocious, ant lion. Don’t be confused as the antlion is neither an ant or a lion.

We teased him out of his hiding place – so shaped to trap ants and other delicious dinner morsels. He was not happy ….. have a look at this little video of him having stern words with us…..

Once we had coaxed this little fellow out of his hiding place, he promptly tried to burrow back not realising he was in the hand of a human! He was released back into his den, to prepare for his next meal.

Antlion are the larval form of any of the 2,000 species of the family Myrmeleontidae, and feed mainly on ants.

A fully developed larva is about 1.5 cm long, with a life cycle similar to that of a caterpillar. It spins a cocoon and emerges resembling a dragonfly.

Antlion traps are set in dry areas where the soil is loose and small. Once they have dug their circular, funnel shaped pit they hide in the bottom of it waiting for their prey. The antlion grabs his dinner with his jaws and promptly sucks out its body fluid and disposes of the carcass.

For more information about Pakamisa Private Game Reserve: www.pakamisa.co.za

GOING BUNDU BASHING

Dressing for the occasion

The entrance to Pakamisa basking in the soft winter Zululand Sun

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal (South Africa), has no major predators, making it safe to go on bush walks. Their food is so delicious and this a welcome alternative to game drives to walk off those extra calories. And if you want to get back in the saddle there is a stable of horses to choose from. Isabella, the owner, will carefully select a horse to suit your riding ability.

But, back to Shanks Pony*, we had a wonderful afternoon with Chamu, Pakamisa’s charming guide. We set out in the late afternoon, in the soft glow of the Zululand winter sun. Mind you, day-time temperatures in this part of the world range between 25 - 30 degrees centigrade, which can hardly be called ‘winter’.

We learnt so much on our easy-going hour and a half walk, so stay with me and I will share snippets with you as we go along.

First thing ….. be prepared, and dress appropriately.

Here are some guidelines for a comfortable bush-walk:

• Wear protection from the African sun – don’t be fooled by our ‘winter’. Wear a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses.
• Cover your legs and arms, to protect you from thorns.
• Wear sturdy walking shoes, and long socks – preferably not white ones. We still have ticks this time of the year. You can spray on insect repellent to be doubly sure.
• Wear colours that blend with the environment – beige, khaki (of course), dark green and brown.
• Cameras, binocs and water – this goes without saying!
• Layer your clothing for cooler evenings, make sure it’s easy to carry.
• Always listen to your ranger, trust his instincts and obey his rules.
• Stay alert and expect the unexpected. The thrill of a bush walk!
• Relish every moment, observe and learn.
• Silence is golden – this is not the time for idle chit chat – listen to the magical sounds of the bush!

Next time I will share some of our bundu bashing moments……

*Shanks Pony is an old Scottish expression – meaning using your two legs!