MY MANYONI

 

It’s so cool to have that special place you like going to. The place that doesn’t disappoint.

You look forward to going there, being there and it’s always sad to leave.

Rhino RiverLodge in Manyoni Private Game Reserve is that place for me. We have been a couple of times as it’s conveniently just down the road (from Pongola) and also a quick and easy three hours on the N2 north from Durban.

We stay in the Homestead, which is separate from the main lodge, but still close enough to enjoy the frills of the lodge. We decided to feed ourselves during the day and dine in style in the evenings.

On our first night we were treated to a candle-light dinner in the riverbed. A boma style fire kept us warm and we ate well. Bush braais can be tricky but the chef cooked to perfection.

Hala was our ranger and he ticked all the boxes for great game sightings.

We captured four out of the big five – the elusive leopard slipped through our fingers.

In the spotlight we found two male lions - an adult male escorted by an older gent who is teaching him a few tricks. We were pleased to see that they hunted well the next day, with wildebeest on the menu. We encountered a lioness and her three cubs who were clearly on the hunt and listened to the zebra frantically barking as they got closer. We didn’t see if they were successful. Not sure I have the stomach for that.

And on the way back for brekkie, almost close to touch, was a male cheetah.

The rhino were on show – without horns but with babies. A herd of elephant also put on a grand display.

Game was abundant – loads of impala, nyala, kudu, giraffe, wildebeest and zebra. The bird life was plentiful and we came across a crowned eagle who had bagged a young monkey.

Manyoni's Conservation Initiatives have several active projects which are well worth supporting. They are especially vigilant in protecting rhino.

Covid has turned tourism on its head, but it has given local tourists the opportunity to enjoy destinations that have budget challenges. So have a look around for good deals. Zululand winters are fabulous.

ZULULAND IS THE KING OF THE JUNGLE

South African tourists are easily intimidated by luxury lodge prices, and yet we yearn to be a part of the Big 5 exclusive gang. I have stayed in some of the more up market lodges that ask in the region of R18,000 per person per night. I don’t deny that this is a real treat and beyond anything we can ever dream of affording. There is no denying that this is luxury at its ultimate best.

Rhino Sands in the Manyoni Private Game Reserve, between Hluhluwe and Mkuze in KwaZulu-Natal offers luxury equal to those upmarket lodges found in the Kruger National Park area. The Big 5 experience can easily be matched and it is more affordable for the local tourist. Admittedly we have to dig deep to tick the box to have an exclusive game experience, where you are treated like the King of the Jungle, to feel special and support those who are striving to keep our wildlife alive. It is a once in a life-time experience and well worth saving your pennies to do.

Rhino Sands caters for only 8 guests in 4 luxury tents. The décor is magnificent, and the lodge is totally eco-friendly. This ticks a huge box for me. The lodge goes out of its way to make sure that attention to detail is done to the extreme, without being superficial. It is down to earth and loyal to the conservation effort the reserve strives to preserve.

At a third of the price of some of the lodges that appeal to international tourists, Rhino Sands has to be on your bucket list.

In 2004, 17 private properties in the northern Zululand area dropped their fences forming the Manyoni Private Game Reserve (formerly Zululand Rhino Reserve). The vision behind the reserve was to provide a home to a population of black rhinos as part of the WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Project. The joining of the properties created a 23,000-hectare private game reserve in the heart of Zululand, in one of the most animal-rich and species-diverse areas of South Africa.

In addition to the black rhinos, the reserve is now home to the big five (rhino, elephant, buffalo, leopard, lion) and has seen the re-introduction of two endangered carnivore species, cheetahs and African wild dogs. It is one of the premier wildlife-viewing destinations in Kwa-Zulu Natal and one of the most beautiful reserves in the area with varied landscapes from acacia thornveld to open savannah to riverine forest. Game drives on the reserve are regulated and coordinated by the ecotourism businesses to minimize the impact on the environment and the stress on the animals providing guests with a better and more intimate game viewing experience.

Find out more: https://rhinosands.com

GOING BUNDU BASHING

Dressing for the occasion

The entrance to Pakamisa basking in the soft winter Zululand Sun

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal (South Africa), has no major predators, making it safe to go on bush walks. Their food is so delicious and this a welcome alternative to game drives to walk off those extra calories. And if you want to get back in the saddle there is a stable of horses to choose from. Isabella, the owner, will carefully select a horse to suit your riding ability.

But, back to Shanks Pony*, we had a wonderful afternoon with Chamu, Pakamisa’s charming guide. We set out in the late afternoon, in the soft glow of the Zululand winter sun. Mind you, day-time temperatures in this part of the world range between 25 - 30 degrees centigrade, which can hardly be called ‘winter’.

We learnt so much on our easy-going hour and a half walk, so stay with me and I will share snippets with you as we go along.

First thing ….. be prepared, and dress appropriately.

Here are some guidelines for a comfortable bush-walk:

• Wear protection from the African sun – don’t be fooled by our ‘winter’. Wear a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses.
• Cover your legs and arms, to protect you from thorns.
• Wear sturdy walking shoes, and long socks – preferably not white ones. We still have ticks this time of the year. You can spray on insect repellent to be doubly sure.
• Wear colours that blend with the environment – beige, khaki (of course), dark green and brown.
• Cameras, binocs and water – this goes without saying!
• Layer your clothing for cooler evenings, make sure it’s easy to carry.
• Always listen to your ranger, trust his instincts and obey his rules.
• Stay alert and expect the unexpected. The thrill of a bush walk!
• Relish every moment, observe and learn.
• Silence is golden – this is not the time for idle chit chat – listen to the magical sounds of the bush!

Next time I will share some of our bundu bashing moments……

*Shanks Pony is an old Scottish expression – meaning using your two legs!

WELL GROOMED LADY AT PAKAMISA

Crisp Zululand mornings are the perfect time for a horse ride. 

Our winters are refreshingly mild and after a cosy night in their pristine stables, the horses are ready to face the day. 

If you are not an accomplished rider, fear not, the Pakamisa horses are well schooled and happy to take you on a gentle ride.

Isabella Stepski, owner of Pakamisa, is a renowned international Arabian horse expert, who has been breeding fine horses for over 30 years. Her horses were originally born and bred in Andalusia, Spain, of purebred Spanish Bloodlines, tracing back to the famous mares of the State owned stud “Yeguada Militar”. In 1996 she transported her entire stud to this scenic, mountainous region just outside Pongola, KwaZulu-Natal, in South Africa. Her horses are raised surrounded by giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and many other antelopes.

The Pakamisa Arabian Stud, located within the 2,500 hectare private game reserve, is home to a selection of Arabian and part-bred horses, specifically chosen to suit the Pakamisa environment.

Makhosi Dlamini 

Over the past 20 years Isabella has trained local staff in horsemanship and is proud to have had people like Makhosi Dlamini on her team. Makhosi joined Pakamisa as a groom. She then became the back-up rider for the horse trails. After Makhosi had her second child she returned to Pakamisa and took the opportunity of working in the kitchen as there was a vacancy available. With Isabella’s excellent training skills guests can be confident that they are in good hands, whether it is in the kitchen, on horseback or in the bush.

WEB: www.pakamisa.co.za

Contact: res@pakamisa.co.za

LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE. INDEED.

It is always such a special treat to be included in out rides at Pakamisa Private Game Reserve. I am a bit of a plodder and was grateful that my steed for the day was Badger. He is a gracious old gent and understands my need to take it slowly. My companions were clearly much better riders than myself and they kindly tolerated my lack of horsemanship.

Pakamisa is the best place to amble through the pristine bush. 




The horses have been trained to accept the wildlife we encounter, and they too remain calm in our presence.

Isabella Stepski, who owns Pakamisa, led our ride. She was born in a saddle and her love for horses is so obvious. Her horses are in excellent condition as is their livery. Isabella welcomes volunteers who spend anything up to 3 months at the reserve escorting guests on rides. They look so elegant on horseback and maybe one day I will get there too. Most volunteers come from Europe – Germany, Austria and Switzerland. As many guests are European they feel quite at home chatting in their mother tongue.

The balmy sky was quite dramatic with the threat of a storm. The afternoon light was so beautiful and taking it slowly we went through tamboti forests and down farm roads making it easy to forget all the troubles of the world.

Learning the Zulu names for the animals is fun on a ride. Pakamisa has a journey of giraffe, or indlulamithi, who are so used to posing for photographs with riders, etching the memory of the encounter forever.  We came across a small group with a youngster who put on a lovely show for us, bucking as he slipped deeper into the forest. The warthog, ntibane, are great opportunists and frequently hang around the stables, greedy for scraps. 

A family of ostrich, intshe, are also always close by. They have raised many chicks in the past, but this year their nest of eggs was vandalized by predators. Eggs are laid in a communal nest called a dump nest, which can hold about 60 eggs at one time. The Zulus haven’t quite wrapped their head around a name for impala, and they remain as ‘mpala’. These delicate antelope will start rutting soon and their guttural call can be heard day and night. Kudu in Zulu are called mgankla or tshabalala – what a fun name! The way they negotiate the thickets with their majestic horns is incredible. Finally, the comedians of the bush, nkhonhoni or blue wildebeest can keep you entertained for ages.

So, despite not galloping on the beautiful open plains at Pakamisa I believe we all had a magical ride taking in the sights, sounds and smells of the Zululand bushveld. We were rewarded with a spectacular storm drenching the reserve with much needed rain.

Thank you Badger for this wonderful experience.

Click here for more information about Pakamisa Private Game Reserve