MY HAPPY PLACE

Reilly's Rock Lodge in the Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Slipping across the border into Swaziland at Onverwacht feels like Alice going through the Looking Glass. It’s on the outskirts of Pongola (where we live) and going to Swaziland always makes me happy. It’s like exhaling and forgetting all that shitty stuff that’s happening this side of the border.

My bestest place on the planet is Reilly’s Rock in the Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Rob with Ruth & Lizzy

Our first stop after a warm greeting from Ruth and Lizzy at Reilly’s Rock is Milwane Hill, for a gin and tonic. The hill is fenced off to facilitate the breeding of endangered and locally threatened antelope, like roan, oribi, suni, red duiker and grysbok, as well as safeguarding the Royal Botanical Gardens featuring the Gilbert Reynolds Memorial Aloe Garden.

Majestic Roan

Suni, red duiker & a plethora of birds

Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge is the original home of the former Mickey Reilly. This quaintly colonial homestead has been converted into an intimate 6 roomed lodge. There are many colourful stories about Mickey Reilly, an entrepreneur who ran the McCreedy Tin Mines in the early 1900’s. This is where Ted Reilly grew up and his love and commitment to nature conservation took root.

Ted is one of God’s special people, and it’s always such a treat to spend time with him and his wife Liz. Their passion for Swaziland’s wildlife is immeasurable and their contribution a legacy. Ted is clearly a national treasure.

Red Tiger Lodge in Mkhaya Game Reserve
Now being restored to its former glory

Ted plays a major role in the future of Swaziland’s wildlife and his latest project is testimony that despite his 80 plus years, he has no intention of resting. Even some serious health issues could not stop him. Heading south towards Big Bend we stopped off at Mkhaya Game Reserve where we spent some precious time with Ted and Liz.

Showing us around the sites for the
proposed accommodation.
Ted, living on the edge, as usual

Red Tiger Ranch, formerly a section of the Massive Bar R Ranch, totaling 175,000 acres, originally belonged to Alister Miller, and Dr. Leo and Di Joubert built the original Red Tiger homestead in the 1940’s. The Reilly’s bought Red Tiger Ranch as an extension to Mkhaya Game Reserve in 1984. Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands has contributed generously to the reserve.

The natural pool.
Making sure no harm is done to any frogs

Young Bruce Joubert’s dream was to see the farm converted into a game reserve. The Reilly family has helped to realise this dream. The next owner after the Jouberts, a man named Khoza, inadvertently burnt down the homestead, leaving it abandoned and exposed to the elements for 40 years. Ted’s vision has been to resurrect it into a warm, functional place where I am sure many folk will make memories. We have watched the Red Tiger Lodge evolve and it has been a magical experience. Eventually Red Tiger Lodge will become Mkhaya’s reception and main gate entry point. The Reilly family is dedicated to sharing this truly spiritual wonder filled with an abundance of wildlife, lizards, frogs and the warmth of the Eswatini people.

The unusual name of the farm was because it is blessed with an abundance of Rooitier grass (Themeda triandra), a valuable resource. Directly translated from Afrikaans this is Red Tiger. This grass is a favoured fodder, high in nutrients and its dominance is a sure indication of healthy virgin veld.

Spectacular gin & tonic views

Red Tiger Lodge is still ‘under construction’ and will soon offer accommodation with the newly revamped homestead becoming the entertainment hub. The views across the reserve are stunning and I have no doubt this will become another of my bestest places to be.

For more information about Swaziland’s Big Game Parks click onto: https://biggameparks.org/

BACK IN THE SADDLE…AGAIN

If the truth be told, the last time I sat firmly in the saddle must have been 25 years ago. I was in my late 20’s getting over a broken heart. A girlfriend had this bright idea that we should take up horse riding and I struggled through a few lessons, finally giving up, deciding that a broken heart was easier to mend than aching thighs.

I have known Isabella Stepski from Pakamisa for 14 years and have always admired her beautiful Arab horses, and longed for the day when I could ride through the pristine bushveld at Pakamisa viewing game.

September is such a gorgeous month in Zululand. The air is crisp, not too hot, and ideal for game viewing.

I rode Apache, a gentleman of a horse, who patiently carried me on our hour and a half amble. The other guests were also novices and we all felt extremely confident on our steeds. The Pakamisa horses (not all Arabs) are well schooled and used to meeting other four legged creatures. There are no predators or dangerous game on the reserve, so no fear of joining the food chain.

Isabella is fastidious about her tack. Her saddles are custom made for each horse. Out of the 33 horses 18 are under saddle. I confess that I did look with extreme envy at the accomplished riders, sitting so naturally on their horses. 

There is something special about the relationship between rider and horse.

We allowed the horses several pub stops. Water is extremely important in our warm, dusty climate. That done, we weaved our way through tamboti forests, following animal tracks and on farm roads. We saw zebra, impala, giraffe (a Pakamisa signature), kudu, duiker and wildebeest. All the game was so calm and it was wonderful to be at one with them.

A flock of ostrich has taken up residence around the stables. 

Mum and dad proudly guarding their 11 new hatchlings.

I slipped off my steed, sorry that the ride was over. Isabella has a group of young volunteers who are kind and efficient. Together we unsaddled the horses and rewarded them with a good brushing. 
Apache thanked me with nuzzling kisses and almost fell asleep during his preening!

It was a wonderful morning. 

Well worth repeating.

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve is just outside Pongola in Zululand, South Africa. www.pakamisa.co.za

Other blogs by Lois Kuhle:
SMOKE RINGS IN CUBA. A TWO WEEK JOURNEY FILLED WITH SALSA, SUNSHINE AND SILLY PEOPLE: http://smokeringsincuba.blogspot.com/2013/10/smoke-rings-in-cuba-journey-filled-with.html
'LIFE'S COOL'. MY NEAREST AND DEAREST BECAME THOSE THAT GRUNTED, BARKED OR BIT.
http://milimanilifescool.blogspot.com/2013/12/i-n-2002-i-was-lucky-enough-to-be-given.html
COOL THOUGHTS – LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE: http://loiscoolthoughts.tumblr.com/
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