COOL THOUGHTS

Peering through God’s Window

It seemed as though the whole of Zululand and most of Swaziland was on fire as we spluttered our way across the smoke shrouded countryside. Such a shame as we were hoping to show off the undulating hills of Swaziland to our Kenyan guest. We slipped through the border at Onverwacht, which is much quieter and friendlier than Golela.

After visiting The House on Fire (a favourite), Swazi Candles, and much to my delight, finding a great nursery selling organic seeds and rhubarb, we settled in at Reilly’s Rock in Milwane Game Reserve.

Although the view was still marred by smoke we delighted in watching klipspringer, blue duiker and suni enjoying mielies scattered in the lush gardens. We joined Mamba (yes, his real name) as he fed bush-babies who scampered down the tin roof for a feast of bananas.

Ted Reilly joined us for dinner.

He is a national treasure of Swaziland, and son of Mick Reilly, who built the original house in the early 1900’s to acquire a wife.

Spending time with Ted is always such a treat and a privilege.

In the morning we went to the Roan camps which house 3 generations of antelope being prepared for release into the wild. Exquisite blue cranes, resembling porcelain statues, wonder around, their damaged wings rendering them unable to fly, but secure in this sanctuary.

We headed north, stopping at Ngwenya Glass and onto Bulembu – just passed Pigg’s Peak. If your car can withstand 17kms of rough road it is so worth the visit.

This once abandoned asbestos mining town has a clear vision to become a vibrant, sustainable community which raises HIV/ AIDs orphans. They have a quaint lodge, profits of which support the project, and their home grown honey is to die for.

Our home for the next couple of nights was Gunyatoo Trout Farm & Lodge in the Rhenosterhoek Valley between Sabie and Lydenburg. We nested comfortably in their log cabin, spending the chilly evenings around a fire.

From here we visited Sabie Falls (disappointing), Mac Mac Falls, the Pinnacle, Sudwala Caves and God’s Window. The smoke was still hanging in the air, but we managed to stare in awe at the Three Rondavels. We had been persuaded not to stay at Pilgrim’s Rest but were disappointed we had not taken a chance. It remains a charming, unusual village. We went in search of the wild horses at Kaapsehoop and eventually found them. We also managed to buy some great organic veg at a small farmer’s market.

The Pinnacle

Pilgrim's Rest

The Three Rondavels

Wild horses @ Kaapsehoop (Don't feed the horses!)

Comfy log cabin at Gunyatoo

Our last night was spent with friends who run Shandon Lodge in Nelspruit. Combine an elegant English lass and a mischievous old advertising exec and you have your entertainment for the night. Jane and Tony Gunstone run a classy place, not adverse to a little bit of revelry.